The view of the river and the surrounding forest is breathtaking. Yet, as we drive up to Hatachi Amari Yotsu in Shiga Prefecture, it almost feels as if we’ve arrived at the wrong destination. A rustic building on a riverbank, it looks, from the outside, more like a barn than a fine dining establishment.  

It’s that element of surprise that the team members — an architect, designer, manager and chef — were hoping to see from guests when they opened the place in April of this year. Collectively, they came up with the idea of creating a distinctive, mountain hut–like restaurant that could also be viewed as a travel destination.     

The space’s stylish, ultramodern interior design contrasts sharply with its unassuming exterior. The furniture is sleek, while the black and gray color palette feels both comforting and elegant. There are two rooms: a private area for up to four people and the main space with an 8-meter-long counter behind which Toru Arai — a chef trained in France with 30 years of experience in the industry — works his magic.  

The focal point of the restaurant is the fire stove. It’s not only there to create a cozy atmosphere; Arai uses it in his cooking, imbuing his dishes with rich and unique flavors. Set against floor-to-ceiling windows that face out to the meandering river, its warm flames make for a memorable sight. 

“I was inspired by a restaurant in France that used a fire stove, but also wanted to put a Japanese spin on things to make it like an irori,” says Arai. “The reason we chose this location is the river. It’s stunning. I used to come here to catch fish with my father as a child, as our home is just a short walk away.” 

24 Solar Terms

During his youth, Arai went out every two weeks to pick wild vegetables with his family. This inspired him to create a fortnightly menu at Hatachi Amari Yotsu. It’s based around the 24 sekki, or subseasons: a traditional way of expressing seasons in Japan, with the year divided into 24 solar terms. As a result, regular customers can enjoy something different each time, and guests can also be assured they’re receiving the freshest seasonal produce.

For Arai, who blends French culinary sophistication with Japanese aesthetics, it’s about creating a dining experience like no other. He wants his guests to feel at one with nature as they dine, while also being able to sample dishes they may never have tried before. Our meal featured several ingredients that can only be found in Shiga, including Biwa trout and summer mushrooms picked from the nearby forest, as well as a luscious selection of cheeses.  

Every dish — including catfish, chicken, shrimp lettuce and ginger ice cream — was sensational. And what made it all even better was the setting. Hatachi Amari Yotsu is more than just a restaurant: It’s a place to sit back, relax and truly enjoy the countryside while consuming some exquisite food.  

More Info

To make a reservation at Hatachi Amari Yotsu, visit hatachiamariyotsu.jp.